What Happened to adidas Fear of God Athletics?

When adidas first announced its Fear of God Athletics partnership with Jerry Lorenzo in 2020, it looked like a match made in sneakerhead heaven. After its abrupt split with Yeezy two years later, the German sportswear giant needed a creative spark, and Lorenzo – whose Fear of God label had already reshaped the way many guys wear streetwear – seemed like the ideal visionary.

The collaboration promised a fusion of adidas’ sporting heritage with Lorenzo’s refined, spiritual minimalism. And while the adidas Fear of God Athletics collaboration never became the runaway success that many had originally predicted, it still offered flashes of brilliance and a few lessons about the delicate dance between fashion, performance, and cultural expectation.

How adidas and Fear of God Came Together

The relationship was revealed at the end of 2020, with the Herzogenaurach label announcing Lorenzo as both a partner and the creative lead for basketball. His track record was impeccable: at Nike, his Air Fear of God 1 had become one of the decade’s most distinctive performance sneakers, while his Essentials line was a juggernaut in accessible luxury, especially during the pandemic when comfort suddenly became king.

For adidas, this was a chance to regain cultural relevance. For Lorenzo, it was an opportunity to scale his ideas on a global stage – not just through shoes, but through a full adidas Fear of God apparel collection that blurred the lines between sportswear, high fashion, and everything in between.

The Launch and Reception of Fear of God Athletics

The ambition was clear, but the timing wasn’t. After months and months of teasers, leaks, and frustrating delays, the first official collection didn’t arrive until late 2023 – a whole three years after the collab was first announced. By then, much of the initial buzz had chilled out.

When the products did land, particularly the first Fear of God Athletics sneakers, the reception was measured rather than frenzied. The shoes earned respect for their distinct silhouettes, and the clothing (clean track pants, oversized hoodies, minimalist shorts) was praised for its wearability and understated detail. The Hollywood Bowl show that marked the debut was a highlight, a reminder of the California-based designer’s ability to turn a runway into a cultural event with atmosphere and conviction.

The Rise and Fall of Fear of God Athletics

While “fall” may be too strong a word, it’s no secret that the collaboration never achieved the gravitational pull of a Yeezy or even a Pharrell Human Race. The collections were solid, yet they didn’t quite generate the sense of urgency sneaker culture thrives on. Some pieces stuck, but most quietly drifted into markdowns, and by 2025, the line has become more of a niche interest than a headline act.

Still, it wasn’t without impact. Certain models remain cult favorites, and the apparel helped expand adi’s language beyond the expected. For Lorenzo, it proved that his aesthetic could scale to a sportswear behemoth – even if the audience wasn’t always ready to meet him there.

Factors Behind the Partnership’s Struggles

Several factors held Fear of God Athletics back. First was the delay: three years between announcement and release is an eternity in an industry built on constant drops. Second was positioning. Was it a performance line? Was it luxury? Was it streetwear? For some consumers, that ambiguity was exciting. For others, it was just confusing.

Competition didn’t help either. During the long gestation, New Balance captured the zeitgeist largely thanks to Teddy Santis’ stewardship, Salomon surged into fashion circles, and Nike remained dominant. Even smaller companies like Hoka and On managed to steal some market share with their cushioned, comfort-driven designs. By the time adidas and Lorenzo finally launched, the sneaker landscape had shifted entirely, and attention had moved elsewhere.

Jerry Lorenzo’s Vision vs. adidas’ Execution

At its heart, the story is about different creative tempos. Lorenzo has always been a perfectionist (just look at his house, for reference), working to a rhythm that favors timelessness over speed. adidas, understandably, operates on a global retail calendar, with quarterly drops, regional rollouts, and sales targets to meet. Neither side was wrong, per se, but they were rarely ever in sync – and that was a major problem.

That tug-of-war meant the collab lived in an in-between space: too minimal for hype-driven sneaker fans, too performance-minded for luxury purists. And yet, there’s a certain charm in that tension. Fear of God Athletics may not have been universal, but it was deeply authentic to Lorenzo’s ethos and uncompromising in its direction.

What’s Next for Jerry Lorenzo and Fear of God

For Lorenzo, the future looks strong. Fear of God’s mainline continues to set the tone for premium streetwear, and Essentials remains a staple worldwide. His work with the Three Stripes also continues, but there's no word about an extension on the five-year deal signed back in 2020.

For adidas, the partnership remains a worthwhile experiment. Sure, the Jerry Lorenzo adidas collaboration hasn’t (yet) delivered Ye-level hype, but it has broadened the brand’s aesthetic reach and proved that even when collections don’t explode overnight, they can still enrich the wider ecosystem.

So, when people ask why Fear of God Athletics hasn’t dominated in the way some expected, the truth is more complicated. Perhaps it asked sneaker culture to slow down and embrace subtlety – something it doesn’t always do well. And yet, in its own quiet way, the line has left its mark. Not every shot has to be a dunk. Sometimes, it’s enough just to change the shape of the game and shift expectations ever so slightly.

Adam Cheung

Adam Cheung is a writer and editor who specialises in sneakers and streetwear. Over the past few years, he's curated features and guides for everyone from Burberry to Nike. Often travelling between the UK and Hong Kong, don't be too surprised if you find Adam anywhere else around the world taking street photography or feasting on the local delicacies.